Brisbane, 28th June, 1881.
SIR,
From time to time during my travel across the continent from Roma to
Point Parker, I have had the honor of forwarding to you progress reports - in
all, seven - describing the general features of the country through which I was
passing. It may now be convenient if I write a short summary of the whole,
describing the impression left upon my mind.
I left Roma on the 14th of January last, and arrived at Point Parker, on
the Gulf of Carpentaria, on 4th May. My party on starting consisted of Mr.
Baynes and Mr. Wyatt (two young gentlemen who, with the kind permission
of the Honourable the Premier, accompanied the party to give all the assistance in their power), three white men (a cook, groom, and coachman), and a
blackboy. On our way we had the assistance of the local police; and on our
arrival at Blackall, on 16th February, we were joined by Mr. Frank Hann
and a blackboy. Mr. Hann is one of the most accomplished bushmen in the
colonies; and from this time throughout he acted as guide and took general
charge of the men and horses, at the same time giving me all the assistance
which his local knowledge enabled him to do.
On leaving Roma I proceeded by the coach road and telegraph line to Charleville. For the first seventy miles the soil is as rich as any to be found in any of
the Australian colonies, very lightly timbered, and all very easy for railway construction. There appears to be plenty of stone suitable for ballast, but a
scarcity of really good timber for bridges and sleepers, I may here remark
that this want exists to a great extent throughout the whole distance from
Roma to Point Parker. The difficulty may be met to some extent by using
the local timber, a practice that has been followed with advantage for several
years in Victoria. After passing through the Mitchell downs, or about seventy
miles from Roma, the country becomes scrubby and slightly rangey, the soil less
rich. This continues off and on for several miles; but occasionally, frequently, there occur patches, several miles in extent, of land suitable for cultivation - in fact, very similar to the Campaspe Plains in Victoria, where
excellent wheat is now grown.
About thirty-five miles before reaching Charleville we reached the Angelalla Range, which is the only range of any consequence met with on the way
to the Gulf. If the line follows the direction of the present road there will,
with a gradient of 1 in 50, be some heavy earthworks; but I am confident
that a careful survey will show that a lower summit, with a better approach
to it, can be found, thus materially decreasing the cost of the work.
Where I have spoken of "really good timber for bridges and sleepers," I have
had in my mind ironbark, cypress pine, bloodwood, ironwood, redgum &c.
These, I fear, could only be procured at considerable cost. In the absence of
these and of any local timber, it may be worth while to consider the propriety
of using cast or wrought iron sleepers. They are only about one-third of the
weight of ironbark, and the cost of carriage is a serious item when it extends
over hundreds of miles.
From Roma to Charleville there had been no rain for several months, and
there was consequently a scarcity of water and feed for the horses; but this
did not alter the quality of the soil.
Before leaving Charleville for Blackall, I learned that the valley of the
Ward River was the most suitable for a railway, that the soil was much richer
than by any other route, but that it was just then impossible to travel that
way in consequence of the scarcity of feed and water. I therefore determined
to follow the Warrego and Nive Rivers, and proceed by way of Ellangowan,
Burenda, Caroline, Nive Downs, and Tambo, to Blackall. I found the country
excellent all the way, for some distance lightly timbered, then magnificent
open rich rolling downs; and I think a sufficiency of water might be stored at
a trifling cost during the wet season to supply the wants during drought.
There is sufficient local timber within reasonable distance for sleepers and
fencing nearly all the way. The country is easy for the construction of a
railway, the earthworks light, and indications of plenty of ballast. The route
I followed is, however, far too roundabout for the railway. There are two
others, either of which would be preferable, viz. - one following the divide
between the Ward and Nive Rivers to Tambo; the other through the rich
land on the west side of the Ward River straight to Blackall. I prefer the
latter, but the line should be kept well back from the river: in fact, as a rule,
the "divides" between rivers should be followed wherever practicable. This
would, of course, present a difficulty, and necessitate artificial means for providing water, such as tanks, dams, or wells.
At Blackall I was joined by Mr. Frank Hann, who relieved me from the
general management of the party, and was of immense assistance. The country
from Blackall to Aramac varies a good deal in places, but on the whole is
good for pastoral purposes, or, indeed, for agriculture when a market can be
found for the produce, and the means of conveying it are provided. The
scarcity of feed still continues, and can scarcely be expected to improve till
the rain comes, I see no reason why a very nearly straight line may not be
followed all the way from Charleville to Aramac, passing within a few miles
of Blackall.
On reaching Aramac, as there was no feed in the locality, the party proceeded to Mount Cornish, where accommodation was offered for the horses;
and I, as requested by the Honourable the Premier, went to Withersfield, to
be able to form an opinion as to the most suitable route for an extension of
the Rockhampton line from Withersfield to a junction with the transcontinental line. This is not properly a part of the main line - particulars
respecting it will be found in my Progress Report No. 3.
Whilst I was away from my party the welcome rain came, and I was
detained for some time at Withersfield and Aramac. I reached Mount
Cornish on the 20th March, and as the rain appeared to be over, and the
ground fast drying up, we started on the 23rd March on our journey.
The country from Aramac to Mount Cornish is exceedingly rich all the
way, and mostly consists of magnificent open downs fit for any purpose, either
pastoral or agricultural. About twelve miles from Aramac there are a few miles
of scrubby country, but the clearing would not be costly, and the soil is rich,
as is evident from the fact that wherever there is a small space free from
scrub it is covered with luxuriant grass.
It had been my intention to proceed by way of the "divide" between the
Tower Hill Creek and the Landsborough River, both tributaries of the Thomson River; but from information I received, I decided to go by way of Winton
and the Diamantina River.
The journey from Muttaburra to Winton was a very difficult one: it rained
a great part of the way, and the rich brown soil clogged the wheels of the
waggon, making it exceedingly difficult to make any progress. The soil all
the way is all that could be desired, and the country slightly undulating, very
easy for railway construction; but there are indications of floods in extraordinary places, which, added to my subsequent observations of the Diamantina and its branches, lead me to the conclusion that it would be better to
cross all these waters higher up, nearer their source, or to head them altogether. Indeed, it appears to me that, to accomplish this, a straight line
might be very nearly followed all the way from Aramac to Fort Constantine,
on the Cloncurry River, and still continued until the "divide" between the
Cloncurry and Leichhardt River is reached; this would miss the Diamantina River altogether, and cross some of its principal tributaries, viz. - the
Wokingham, Werna, and Mills' Creeks, near their sources; the country
through which such a line would pass is very suitable for railway construction,
and the soil exceedingly rich - in fact, similar to the Diamantina country
over which I have passed - embracing a portion of the Ayrshire Downs, whose
richness is well known; but there is still a scarcity of good timber.
After crossing the Great Dividing Range, which is in reality imperceptible,
I followed a nearly north-westerly direction, passing through excellent country
all the way until I reached the Cloncurry River, which I crossed near Fort
Constantine, leaving the Cloncurry copper-mines about sixteen miles to the
south, and still pursued the same general direction until I reached the
Leichhardt River, which I crossed and followed down the western side for
about twelve miles, when I came to a large creek, and, having learnt that
there were many others nearly as large as the river itself running in from the
western side, I recrossed the river and followed down the eastern side until
I reached Floraville or Chandos, when I again crossed about four miles below
the falls near the junction of the Alexandra or Landsborough River.
The country all the way from the Great Dividing Range, which, for distinction, I must still call it - very much surprised me; I was, somehow, under
the impression that the soil was of indifferent quality, and the country rangey
- in fact, mountainous; the very opposite is the case. As far as the
McKinlay Creek the country is admirably adapted for pastoral purposes,
either for cattle or sheep, and for cultivation also; it is almost level, and very
easy for the construction of a railway, with every appearance of plenty of
stone. After passing the McKinlay Creek, all the way to Chandos, I think
the country is more suitable for cattle than for sheep, because there are in
many places grass-seeds which, I think, would eat into and kill sheep; the
pasturage is more suitable for cattle; sheep would be lost in it. There is
also a considerable extent of spinifex country; but for cattle I fancy it could
scarcely be surpassed, and especially on the eastern side of the Leichhardt
River, where permanent water in magnificent waterholes, supplemented by
numerous lagoons, in many cases, several miles back from the river, supplying
water nearly all the year round, and the rich soil and luxuriant pasturage,
appear to me to leave nothing to be desired.
About eighteen miles above the Falls, which are at Floraville, there is a
suitable place for a bridge - the most suitable I have yet seen - bold rocky
cliffs about sixty yards apart, with a ravine between them which ordinary
floods pass ; and if the river be crossed here - I say if, because it has been
suggested that the line might be taken straight into the Gulf, to a point
called Morning Inlet, but the result of inquiries I made was not encouraging,
and I concluded that the expenditure of a sum of money equal to the cost of
crossing the Leichhardt, the Albert, and the Nicholson Rivers would not place
Morning Inlet as a port in a position equal to that in which Nature's laws
have placed Point Parker; - if, therefore, the river be crossed here, a straight
line may, I think, be taken all the way in a north-west direction to within
about fifty miles due south from Point Parker, crossing the Albert near the
junction of the Brook and Barkly Rivers, and the Nicholson immediately
above the effluence of a large stream, which soon becomes as large as the
Nicholson itself, and finds its own way into the sea - by some it has been
called the Western Nicholson - leaving Burketown about fourteen miles to
the north. The country from Floraville to Point Parker varies a good deal;
from the Leichhardt to within about forty miles of Point Parker I should say it
is good cattle country. A considerable portion of it is subject to floods, but
for a great many miles after crossing the Nicholson it is undulating, high and
dry above all floods. It has been said that the country from Burketown to
Point Parker is impracticable for the construction of a railway, in consequence
of the floods. I consider this a great misrepresentation, entirely unfounded.
There are, no doubt, portions, several miles, which are subject to floods, but
not raging torrents, carrying everything before them - rather, still water,
tidal floods, caused by the storm waters being met by the tidal waters, not
presenting any insurmountable or costly obstacle to the construction of a
railway. The route I followed for the last thirty miles was near the Gulf,
and we had to contend with several saltwater inlets. These can be avoided by
keeping a few miles further to the westward. The last forty miles of country
is probably not quite so suitable for cattle as what has preceded it - there is a
good deal of brackish water - but it may be good for other purposes.
The country immediately around Point Parker is not low, or, I think, ever
subject to floods. I have no doubt a suitable site could be found for a township.
Of the harbour itself I scarcely feel called upon to express an opinion. I
am told by experts that the soundings on Captain Pennefather's chart indicate
sufficient water for every requirement. I had an opportunity of verifying
some of these, and should be inclined to place the utmost reliance on their
accuracy.
I have so far omitted any mention of the rivers which will probably have
to be crossed between Roma and Point Parker. The principal are the Maranoa, the Warrego, and the Ward (unless it be decided to cross below their
junction), the Barcoo, the Alice, the Thompson, the Cloncurry, the Leichhardt,
the Albert, and the Nicholson. There are a great many creeks which almost
deserve the name of rivers. I can scarcely venture, in the absence of any
survey or sections, to estimate even approximately the extent or cost of the
bridges. The floods are at times very high, and such floods have in other
cases been very successfully and economically dealt with by constructing the
bridges sufficiently high for ordinary floods, and letting high floods pass over
the line, submitting to temporary inconvenience, and repairing damage, if any,
as quickly as possible afterwards. I think, in most cases, the bridges, both
for rivers and large creeks, should be of timber; but the culverts may be
economically built with stone abutments, and tops either girders made out of
two wrought-iron sleepers back to back, where iron sleepers are used, or three
ordinary rails bolted together, when the span does not exceed six or seven
feet; but this is matter of detail.
The Cloncurry mines demand some notice. I had an opportunity of going
over the principal one, and, through the courtesy and kindness of the managing proprietor, Mr. Henry, of gaining some valuable information. It is, no
doubt, a very rich mine; but its richness has been greatly exaggerated, to the
annoyance of the proprietors. It has been said, and - strange to say - by some
believed, that it was one mass of pure copper, which it was impossible to work.
A moment's consideration will, I think, show the absurdity of this. That
there is very rich ore there I know, because I have seen it - ore that will, I
am told and believe, yield 70, 80, 90 per cent.; I have even seen some specimens of pure copper, but only small ones. Mr. Henry informed me that the
ore from this mine would yield probably 30 per cent. of copper. I am no
judge. It is easily got (the richer the ore, the more easy the "getting"); the
carriage by dray to Normanton is about £8 10s. per ton, and thence
to Sydney about £l 10s. per ton. I fancy this must leave a large
profit; and if the demand and supply be as unlimited as it is said
they are, then the carriage to a seaport must necessarily bring a large
revenue to a railway company, even from this one mine; but it is said, and so
universally and persistently said as to almost compel belief, that the country
is full of such mines, and also many of iron and other minerals. The route I
have indicated on the map takes the line not nearer than within sixteen miles
of the mine. It is probable that a more comprehensive survey may show
that it is practicable to take the line nearer to or even quite through the mining district, and further information may justify it. But so many mining
speculations have been started in the colonies and failed, that I think, before
deciding to deviate from a direct course for the main line, inquiry should be
made as to the results of "mining for minerals other than gold," and the causes
of success or failure. In answer to my question why such a rich mine had
remained for so many years comparatively inactive, I was told it was in consequence of the failure of one of the London proprietors, but that there was every
prospect of its being in full working order again shortly; and no doubt the
prospect of a railway and cheaper carriage will help to encourage this. The
country is admirably adapted for the construction of a branch line.
I have suggested that the work of first construction might be facilitated by
the use of the local timbers, but I have not lost sight of the importance of
securing really good timber, even at considerably increased cost - timber such
as ironbark, cypress pine, bloodwood, &c.; or of the use of iron for sleepers
and culverts.
On my arrival at Point Parker, as I had several days to spare before it was
necessary I should be at Thursday Island to join the mail steamer, and the
Q.G. schooner "Pearl" was at my disposal, I determined to try if I could
find any suitable timber on the shores of the Gulf.
At the suggestion of Captain Pennefather I determined to visit the Batavia
River, whose mouth is on the eastern side of the Gulf, about eighty miles
south from Thursday Island, and four hundred miles from Point Parker.
We first visited the Norman River, which we had difficulty in reaching, as
we chanced to reach the bar at low water, and had to anchor there for about
twelve hours. On reaching Kimberley we left the ship, and in the whale-boat went up the river to Normanton. It is a fine river, but the bar is a
great obstacle, and I did not find any timber, which was what I was in search
of. On leaving Kimberley we were again delayed for about twenty hours in
consequence of there not being sufficient water to let us cross the bar, there
being only one tide in the twenty-four hours.
On nearing the mouth of the Batavia River we were met by a strong head
wind. We had to beat all the way for several miles, and as the soundings
were taken every few minutes we got a series of cross-sections of the channel.
The modus operandi was to go in one direction until we reached three
fathoms water, then to tack and proceed in a nearly opposite direction until
we reached a three-fathom point on the other side of the channel, then tack
again, and so on. In crossing from one three-fathom point to the other we
invariably crossed in mid-channel a depth of five, six, seven fathoms, and, as
we neared the entrance, nine and ten fathoms. The mouth of the river is
about two miles wide, and immediately inside is a large basin, oval in shape,
about seven miles by five miles, with a very large extent of deep water.
After crossing this basin, with five or six fathoms of water all the way, we
proceeded about twelve miles up the river, anchored, and went on shore.
Here, on the south side of the river, we found a fine forest of timber - blood-wood, ironwood, and stringybark or messmate - I think, sufficient to supply
as much timber for sleepers, &c., as it will be found desirable to carry from
the Point Parker end of the line.
The importance of using timber that will resist the ravages of the white ant
and dry-rot can scarcely be over-estimated. The use of iron sleepers is also
deserving of consideration. The price per sleeper for iron at Point Parker
would, no doubt, be considerably greater than the price per sleeper for timber,
but they are much lighter, and the carriage is a heavy item ; however, given
the cost of each description at Point Parker, the weight of each, and the
cost of haulage per ton per mile, and it is easy to determine beyond what
mileage on the line it would be more economical to use iron than timber.
The cost of water carriage from Batavia River to Point Parker (four hundred miles) would be trifling.
We proceeded about forty miles further up the river in the boat. There is
plenty of water all the way, three fathoms where we turned back ; and the
banks, where the timber is found, are very convenient for shipping. I think
a further survey of the river should be made; it is by far the finest I have
seen in the colonies.
We did not see many blacks up the river, but those we did see were fine,
muscular fellows, with limbs such as I have not seen before; self-reliant
looking. They showed every disposition to be friendly, and if treated fairly
and kindly would probably be useful allies, but if treated harshly would be
very troublesome.
Fuller particulars will be found in a separate report furnished by me on the
15th instant.
In conclusion, it appears to me that the whole question may be dealt with
in two paragraphs:
1st. The general features of the country.
2ndly. The facilities for railway construction.
What I have wished to convey is:-
First. - The country is comparatively level from end to end, there being only
one range worth mention, viz., the Angelalla Range, about thirty-five miles
from Charleville. The soil is, for nearly the whole distance, surpassingly rich
and suitable for either pastoral or agricultural purposes; the southern portions
for either cattle, sheep, or the cultivation of ordinary crops; the northern for
cattle or tropical products, sugar, cotton, rice, &c., &c. As a proof of the
richness of the soil and the value of the land, may be cited the avidity with
which all station properties have recently been purchased by capitalists, immediately on being offered for sale; and this with the uncertainty of a holding under a squatter's license or lease. When the holding is made secure,
either by purchase of the freehold or a lease giving security from invasion or
interference for ever or for a definite number of years, the expenditure of
capital and labour will be justified, and the productiveness of the soil unlimited. Perhaps I saw a great part of the country, shortly after a fall of rain,
under somewhat favourable circumstances; and my only fear is that, in my
anxiety not to exaggerate anything or to present an overdrawn picture, I may
have erred in the opposite direction, and understated the richness of the
country over which I have travelled and through which I think the line can
be taken.
Secondly, as to facilities for construction. It will be gathered that I consider the country all the way remarkably suitable for the cheap construction
of railways. It is so level or so uniform, easy in its undulations and in crossing the divides between waters, that the earthworks must be comparatively
light - surface-forming nearly all the way. There are indications of plenty of
stone for ballast and the abutments of culverts; the quantity of ballast now
being used in the more recently constructed lines scarcely exceeds 500 cubic
yards (five hundred cubic yards) per mile. The principal, perhaps all, the
bridges can be constructed of timber in such a way that the high floods may
pass over them. For many miles, if the local timbers be adopted, sufficient
will be found within reasonable proximity to the line; and, if more durable
timber be required, plenty can be found at the Batavia River, involving
cheap water carriage (about four hundred miles) at the Gulf end; and in the
neighbourhood of Roma at the southern end; of course, the carriage by
railway would be costly, and it may be worth while to consider the propriety
of using wrought-iron for sleepers and for the tops of culverts. The line may
be very direct - most of the rivers admit of being crossed at any one point as
well as at any other; a certain sectional area of water-way has to be provided,
and it does not matter much exactly where. I think the general direction
may be in straight lines, or nearly so, as follows:-
- From Roma to the divide between the Ward River and western
waters, nearly due west, 168 miles.
-
From this point up the valley of the Ward, and crossing the
Barcoo and Alice Rivers straight to Aramac, bearing a little west
of north 232 miles.
-
From Aramac to the divide between the Cloncurry and Leichhardt
Rivers, crossing the Thomson and Cloncurry Rivers, bearing W.
30° N. about 370 miles.
-
Following the divide between the Cloncurry and Leichhardt to
within about 60 miles of Chandos, nearly due north 91 miles.
- Thence to a point nearly due south about 50 miles from Point
Parker, crossing the Leichhardt, the Albert, and the Nicholson
Rivers, bearing about north-west 104 miles.
- From the last-mentioned to Point Parker, due north, about 50 miles.
These distances are scaled from the map, and are only approximate.
I attach a plan showing roughly the route I followed, in firm red lines, and
that which I have suggested, in dotted red lines; and with this you will
receive a copy of my rough field-notes taken daily during the journey. I
prefer to send them to you just as they were jotted down, without any alterations, with the exception of striking out some irrelevant paragraphs.
I have, &c.,

ROBT. WATSON, O.E., M. INST. C.E,
The Honourable The Colonial Secretary, Brisbane.